Perched over the Mekong River, the temples of sleepy louang prabang used to
be as far north as a tourist could get in Laos. Now the majestic former capital
is where the guidebooks run out and great journeys begin. Mine in this case was
to Muang Xing, a valley town (pop. 10,000) tucked in the western Annamite
mountains, a stone's throw from Burma and China.
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